Things to Do in Theth, Albania: 8 Things I Loved in the Albanian Alps
This post may contain affiliate links. When you click on and/or make a purchase through an affiliate link placed on this website, I may receive a small commission at no additional cost to you. Read the full disclosure here.
Planning a trip to Theth can feel overwhelming when every hike, guesthouse and road update online seems to say something different.
I spent two nights in Theth in October, hiked to the Blue Eye, bought a pair of pupa from a shepherd and then walked over the pass to Valbona.
Theth is one of the most beautiful places in Albania, but it’s small and remote, so it helps to know what to do before you arrive.
So here are the 8 things I’d do in Theth, from the old stone church to the hike over to Valbona.
Quick Answer
⭐⭐⭐ Hike to the Blue Eye, my favourite day out in Theth, or join this Theth and Blue Eye day tour if you only have one day from Shkodër. Check availability →
⭐⭐ Hike over the pass to Valbona, and spend a night or two in Theth first at Bujtina Terthorja, the best-rated guesthouse in the valley. Check prices & availability →
⭐ Visit the church and the lock-in tower, and if you’re driving, the road from Shkodër is now paved, so a hire car works well. Check prices & availability →
I highly recommend staying at least 2 nights to get the most out of one of the most beautiful places to visit in Albania.
If you’re still working out how to get there, read my guide on how to get from Shkodër to Theth.
1. Visit the church
The famous church of Theth is a must-visit and inevitably you will see it as Theth is very small!
Theth church has possibly the most beautiful backdrop a church has ever had.
The church was built in 1892.
Under communism, it was used as the village clinic, and today it’s usually only open on Sundays, when the priest is in town.
2. Buy a local souvenir
While exploring Theth, I came across a shepherd who was looking after her herd and knitting pupa at the same time, which are like thick woollen socks or fabric slippers.
It was the perfect souvenir to take home from Theth, especially as I was totally underprepared and hadn’t brought anything warm.
I visited in October!
3. Visit the blood feud tower (lock-in)
If you haven’t heard about the infamous Albanian blood feuds, then you’re missing out on a key part of northern Albania’s history.
Blood feuds started as far back as the 15th century when the law of kanun came into play for the tribes in northern Albania and some other countries within the Balkans.
The kanun states that when blood is taken the only way to solve is to take that of who stole the blood.
Meaning if you murdered someone, the family of who has been murdered has the right to kill you and any of your (male) family members.
It’s basically a revenge law.
This tower is where men would hide, it was a sort of safe house where you couldn’t be touched.
Believe it or not, blood feuds still affect families in northern Albania today, with estimates ranging from about 70 to a few hundred families, although they’re much rarer than they used to be.
4. Blue Eye hike
Distance: about 18 to 19 km there and back (about 9 km each way)
Hours: 6 to 7 hours there and back
Difficulty level: Medium
One of the best things to do in Theth is to visit the blue eye (Syri i Kalter).
Don’t get it mixed up with the one in the south of Albania, they are different!
Visiting the Blue Eye is a great thing to do for the day.
The hike takes around 3 hours each way and is medium difficulty.
The hardest bit is the last hour, other than that the path is flat most of the way.
There is an option to get a ride for most of the way and then you will need to walk for around 45 minutes to 1 hour.
I walked there and got a ride back with some friends which I am so happy I did because after 3 hours (and preparing for the big hike the next day) it was a great option for an amateur like me!
There are a couple of restaurants and cafes near the entrance to the Blue Eye (around the 2-hour walking mark).
Don’t be fooled like I was and think that you are nearly there when you still have another 1 hour to go with nearly all of it uphill.
The blue eye is worth the slog and is one of the most beautiful natural sites in Albania.
When you get to the site there is even a restaurant there which has some beautiful views of the blue eye from above.
5. Grunas waterfall
Hours: 45 minutes from Theth church
Difficulty level: Easy/Medium
This is a great thing to do for a couple of hours.
The Grunas waterfall is not too far from the centre of Theth, and it’s a beautiful walk.
The uphill stage of the walk only lasts around 15 minutes so it’s not too bad and totally worth it when you reach the bottom of the waterfall.
My Number One Tip: Hire a Car for Full Flexibility
The road from Shkodër to Theth is now paved, so you don’t need a 4×4 anymore, and with your own car you can stop for photos on the way.
Check here for the best car rental companies and prices for your Albania trip →
6. Theth to Valbona hike
Distance: about 10.5 miles or 17 km
Hours: 6 to 8 hours
Difficulty level: Medium
The most popular hike within Albania and often referred to as ‘the hike’ by other backpackers, the Theth to Valbona hike (or Valbone to Theth, whichever way you want to do it), is not to be missed and truly is one of the best things to do in Albania.
I am not a hiker at all, but I do enjoy walking and I found this hike to be medium difficulty.
The last hour was the hardest (coming from Theth) as it’s all uphill and it can be steep in some places with it feeling like it may never end.
Or this could simply be me complaining a little too much.
The distance may vary a lot depending on where you stay.
You could easily add another hour onto the walking time depending on where your hotel is, which is why you will hear this hike with so many different times.
We stayed near the church of Theth and left our hotel at around 8.20, and arrived at our Valbona hotel at 4.45 pm so it took us just over 8 hours to complete.
I stayed at Hotel Margjeka, one of the first hotels in Valbona, which I was so thankful for after a long day. Check prices & availability →
Depending on where you stay, it may also add another hour walk on the road to your guest house!
There are a few cafes along the walk where you can buy drinks and fill up your water bottle.
Make sure you bring some food with you.
Often the guesthouses will offer to pack you a lunch for the hike so ask your guesthouse about this!
If you have luggage you can hire a mule to take it over the track for you.
Otherwise, a better idea is to leave anything you don’t need with your accommodation in Shkodër.
Only pack the essentials!
3 Albanian Alps Tours I’d Book Right Away
⭐⭐⭐ Theth Village and Blue Eye Hike Day Tour · Pick this one if you only have one day. It picks you up in Shkodër and includes the hike to the Blue Eye. Check availability →
⭐⭐ Albanian Alps: 3-Day Komani Lake, Valbona and Theth Tour · Pick this one if you’d rather have a guide for the hike. It includes the Komani ferry and the Valbona to Theth pass. Check availability →
⭐ Komani Lake and Shala River Day Trip · Pick this one if you want something a little different. It’s a boat day on Lake Komani from Shkodër. Check availability →
7. Eat at Guesthouse Shpella
The best place I ate at was Guesthouse Shpella.
It’s great food, very affordable, a super friendly family who run it.
When I was there, a big grill platter was only €7 and soup was only €2!
After a trip to the blue eye or the waterfall make sure you stop here to fill up on yummy food.
8. Stay at Bujtina Polia
This is where I stayed for 2 nights, and I highly recommend it.
I had a little cabin, which was nice and cosy.
It’s located right next to the Theth church and about a 20-minute walk to the centre of Theth (where the mini market is).
The family were friendly, and the food was good.
Breakfast was a buffet and was filled with all the right things to prepare for the days hiking.
I also had lunch there (500 lek per person when I stayed), with a range of dishes like meat, cheese, salad, soup, bread and water.
They also have family dinners which were €10 per person.
There was a lot of food and a typical Albanian style of lots of different dishes, so you get a bit of everything.
Where I’d Stay in Theth
(⭐⭐⭐ = my top pick)
⭐⭐⭐ Bujtina Terthorja · Pick this one if you want the best-rated guesthouse in the valley. It scores 9.6 from over 1,400 guests, and the breakfast gets rave reviews. Check prices & availability →
⭐⭐ Bujtina Polia · Pick this one if you want to stay right next to the church. It’s where I stayed for two nights, in a cosy little cabin. Check prices & availability →
⭐ ‘Gurra Family’ Guesthouse · Pick this one if you want a proper family guesthouse feel. It has its own restaurant and bar, so dinner after a long hike is sorted. Check prices & availability →
When visiting Theth, don’t do what I did and forget just about everything you need to hike with.
There were lots of people with professional hiking gear, walking poles etc but, you don’t need anything fancy.
Still here’s a list of what I recommend you bring with you to Theth:
I hope this guide has given you a good insight into the best things to do in Theth and the surrounding area.
If you have any questions about Theth or any of the places I have mentioned, then please leave them below and I will do my best to answer them for you.
Did you have to hike back to Theth the next day or is there any other way to get back to Shkoder?
Sounds like a “must visit” place. I’ve always wanted to visit Albania since my grandparents were originally from Albania before moving to the US in the 1920’s.
Thanks for all the great information and tips!
Steve (from Kansas)