This hike through the Albanian alps is one of the best things to do in Albania by far.

Even if you are not an avid hiker like me, the views are incredibly rewarding, and you get to see a different side of Albania.

To give you a better insight into the hike I have decided to jot down 26 questions that are being asked online and from people in my Travelling Albania Facebook group.

1. The distance of the Theth Valbona trail

The distance of the hike is around 10.5 miles (or 17km).

This can vary though depending on where you are staying in both Theth and Valbona.

This is something you should definitely check before booking accommodation!

You can get a ride to the trailheads to make it a shorter hike, just ask your accommodation.

2. How long does it take to do the hike?

The hike takes around 6-8 hours. Everyone has different paces and maybe stopping more for photos.

Also as mentioned above, it depends on where you are staying if you are not getting a ride to the trailhead.

We didn’t get a ride to the trailhead and left around 8.20 am from our hotel Bujtina Polia in Theth and arrived at our hotel in Valbona (Hotel Margjeka) around 4.45 pm so it took us just over 8 hours to complete.

We stopped a lot because of two reasons, our fitness level was poor and to take pictures and videos with the drone.

You should also factor in the stop at the very top of the trail.

It’s a great place to have your lunch and relax for 30minutes to enjoy the views!

3. What difficulty is the hike?

I would say medium difficulty.

There are some definite steep bits, but you will not find yourself rock climbing or scrambling at all.

But it depends on your fitness level and if you have done hiking before.

I have done harder hikes in the likes of New Zealand than this one and I am in no way an avid hiker.

But please make sure you have good shoes, not socks and sandals like I saw one guy doing it in.

If there is rain on the trail there are some parts which can be slippery, so having a good grip is paramount for your own safety.

4. Do I need a guide?

No, this is a common misconception.

If you’re talking to an Albanian, they will probably say you need one as Albanians are very safety-conscious and always want to keep you safe.

But having a guide is not necessary at all.

The trail is clearly marked, and chances are you will be hiking with lots of other people.

5. Do I start from Theth or Valbona?

This is something I have been thinking long and hard about.

There are many debates on whether you should start from Theth or Valbona.

In terms of difficulty, I feel like starting in Valbona may be easier as starting from Theth it is a constant uphill.

However, the Valbona side you will be walking flat and then boom, there’s more of an uphill.

So, to answer this question, I don’t know, and I would say don’t think about it too much.

I would think about what you feel like doing after the hike, in the days before or after.

I was happy that we stayed in Theth for a couple of nights before because we were able to do the Blue Eye hike and another hike to Theth waterfall which I don’t feel like we would have liked doing in the following day after a hike from Valbona.

6. When is the best time to do the hike?

I would say spring or autumn. Autumn is safer as there can still be snow until late May sometimes.

Summer is when it’s the most popular, but it can be very hot and crowded.

So, I would recommend visiting in late September or even October (if the weather holds!).

We did it at the beginning of October and it was incredible with the autumnal colours and the weather was still amazing.

It’s not possible to do this hike all year round due to snow and ice, the trail is open from around May (usually late due to snow still not being melted) and late October for amateurs.

7. When should I start the hike?

As early as possible!

I would recommend leaving at 7.30 or even 7 if you can get up that early.

Particularly in the summer as it can get hot!

I have heard of people still walking in the dark which you do not want to do so I would recommend having a light breakfast on the go and getting up to the top as soon as you can.

8. Where can I refill my water bottle?

There are cafes (about 4 of them) along the trail.

You can grab a drink and enjoy the view.

This is another reason why you should head out early, so you have enough time to stop at some of these places and enjoy the views they have.

They have fresh springs near the cafes where you can fill up your water bottle.

9. Is the trail marked?

Yes, it is.

There are clear red and white symbols showing you where to go.

There are a couple of places on the Theth side which were not marked clearly which is where my maps.me came in handy.

I would recommend downloading it just in case. It’s an offline map app that shows the trails and roads.

10. Do I have to worry about animals?

You don’t have to worry but you should be aware.

Theth National Park is one of the most biodiverse destinations in Albania so many animals can be found.

This includes brown bears, lynx, wolves, deer, and snakes.

My recommendation is to always keep to the track and if you hear something, make a lot of noise.

It’s something that you don’t really have to think about on this trail as there is usually a lot of people doing the hike and it’s too noisy for these types of animals to hang around there.

11. Can I visit in winter?

No, you cannot do the hike in the winter if you are not a professional or with a guide.

In Theth and Valbona there is heavy snowfall so if you don’t have the right gear it’s not advised.

The villages are attracting more and more people in the winter looking for a wintery escape though.

Just keep in mind that you may have to do a tour to access these places and most of the accommodation suppliers will be closed so always double-check.

12. Where to stay in Theth?

We stayed at a place called Bujtina Polia which was right near the church of Theth.

It has a big fireplace, breakfast buffet, great lunch and dinner options and cute cabins (where we stayed!).

They also have the main house which has some great rooms with amazing views.

It was a great place to stay as it was sort of a base to go either hiking to the blue eye or the other way to the start of the trail.

Click here for latest prices and availability. 

13. Where to stay in Valbona?

I would highly recommend staying at Hotel Margjeka because it’s one of the closest hotels to the start of the trail in Valbona.

They also have a delicious breakfast which is included and it’s one of the best restaurants in Valbona.

The room has a beautiful view and they had superb heating which was essential for October.

The staff were super helpful and friendly too!

Click here for the latest prices and availability. 

14. Are there ATMs in Theth or Valbona?

No, there is not.

Make sure you get enough money to last you for breakfast (most are included in your accommodation for free), lunch, dinner, snacks and any souvenirs you may want.

15. Can you pull off the journey and hike in 3 days?

Yes, you could. If you don’t have enough time here’s what you can do (from Shkoder):

Day 1: Leave from Shkoder to Koman and catch the Koman ferry (3 hours and named one of the most beautiful ferry rides in the world) to Fierza, then catch the shuttle to Valbona.

Day 2: Get up early and do the hike to Theth.

This will take 6-8 hours. Arrive at your Theth accommodation and stay the night.

Day 3: Catch a shuttle from Theth to Shkoder.

The journey takes around 3 hours.

You really couldn’t do this trip in just 2 days as the timings wouldn’t quite work if you don’t have your own 4×4 to get there.

16. How do I get to Theth from Shkoder?

The shuttle leaves at 7 am from Shkoder to Theth and cost 10 euro per person.

Ask your hotel or hostel to arrange it for you. Make sure you do it the day before you want to go to Theth.

Here’s the number of a shuttle if your accommodation doesn’t know (0682473011).

17. How do I get from Shkoder to Valbona?

The best way by far is doing the Shkoder-Koman-Fierze-Valbona route.

This trip is 2 shuttles and one boat trip which has been named one of the most beautiful boat trips in the world.

All of the booking can be done on their website here.

The company will pick you up from your hotel in Shkoder and drive to the ferry port of Koman which takes around 1 hour 30 minutes.

Then you will catch the ferry which takes 3 hours.

Once you have arrived at the ferry port of Fierze you will then catch the last shuttle to Valbona which takes around 1 hour.

This whole journey costs 20 euro or 2800 lek and takes around 6 hours (by the time you wait for the shuttles etc).

All of this can be booked online or by giving them a call.

You must make an advanced booking; it cannot be made on the day.

You can choose to pay online (note that you will only pay for the ferry online, you will pay for the shuttles in cash), or it can all be paid in cash.

I highly recommend doing this trip, it was incredible to cruise over the artificial lake of Koman with the mountains on either side!

18. Which is better, Theth or Valbona?

Valbona is a lot more geared for tourism and more developed than Theth is.

I really enjoyed Theth as it had more of a village vibe and was quieter than Valbona (although both are very quiet!).

As we stayed in Theth before the hike we got to explore more of it than we did of Valbona because we left the next day to go back to Shkoder.

19. Can I drive to Theth?

Yes, and you do not need a 4×4.

Sometimes the road is closed at certain times of the year depending on bad weather.

20. Can I drive to Valbona?

Yes, there is a road to Valbona, and you do not need a 4×4.

I cannot comment personally on the road condition though as I have not driven it myself.

21. Where can I leave my bags whilst doing the hike?

I would highly recommend leaving anything you don’t need in Shkoder at an accommodation supplier.

If you stay in a hotel or hostel in Shkoder beforehand, they are usually happy to hold your luggage for you for a fee.

You can also hire a mule to take your luggage over for you.

22. Do I have to book accommodation the night before?

Yes, it is advised too, especially in the summer months as accommodation can be booked.

During the off-season (May-June and September to October) you could easily just turn up without a booking.

23. Is there are any other nice hikes I can do in Theth?

Yes! I highly recommend doing the hike to the blue eye which is 3 hours each way.

The blue eye is beautiful and well worth the walk!

There is also a nice, smaller hike to Theth waterfall which is stunning also.

There are a few more walks within Theth that you can do.

24. Are there any other nice hikes I can do in Valbona?

Yes, there is!

Unfortunately, I didn’t get to do any of them as we were only in Valbona for 1 night, but I have heard that the Meadow Loop is beautiful and well worth it.

Another great option is to walk to the Valbona waterfall.

25. What do I need to pack?

Here are the 5 things I recommend you take for the Theth Valbona hike:

• Filtered drink bottle
• Good hiking shoes
• A good camera
• Light daypack
• A mini first aid kit

26. I’m a solo female, is it safe to do this hike alone?

Although I did this hike with my boyfriend, I would 100% recommend this hike, even if you are a solo female.

As mentioned above with the guide thing, Albanians will tell you should have someone with you, but I don’t see why that would be a problem.

I saw many girls doing this hike by themselves.

Also, there will be other people on the hike too so it’s not like you would be doing it on your own.

27. Does the trail get busy?

Yes, in the summer it can.

I was even surprised when I did it (beginning of October) that around 40 people were doing the hike also.

I can imagine in the summer that this trail would get busy as it is the most popular hike in Albania after all and on so many people’s bucket lists!

I hope you found these 27 questions and answers helpful to prepare for the Theth Valbona hike (also known as the Valbona pass).

If you have any further questions, make sure you leave them below so I can add them into the post.

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After living in Albania for two years and exploring nearly all the country, I finally made it to Theth and wow, it took my breath away.

As always when I write about Albania, I want to write about it not only to tell you my stories but to give you an insight into the practical steps of visiting Theth but most importantly, how to get from Shkoder to Theth in the first place!

Note: Theth is very isolated and there are no ATMs in the village or Valbona.

Please take enough cash with you for the time you are staying there.

Getting to Theth from Shkoder by van

The most popular way to get to Theth is from Shkoder, which is a city in the north of Albania, and a very beautiful one at that!

You should absolutely spend a couple of nights in Shkoder if you can.

There is a van that leaves from Shkoder at 7 am and costs €10 per person.

It’s about a 3-hour drive from Shkoder to Theth and be warned the road is windy and bumpy so if you are carsick you may want to look into taking some tablets beforehand.

Your accommodation supplier should be able to arrange it for you if not the number of the shuttle is +355682473011.

You will need to book the night before as a furgon will pick you up from your hotel or hostel.

It will then take you to a van just outside the city which will take you all the way to Theth.

Getting to Theth by 4×4

You MUST have a 4×4 to visit Theth, a normal car will not do.

The roads are extremely bumpy and there’s a lot of steep and slippery parts to the road.

I visited in October when there was some rain and the road in places was mud.

If you do have a 4×4 make sure you drive it when the road is open.

Currently, they are paving a new road which will mean cars will be able to drive there in the near future, which is exciting!

Times are above.

For a 4×4 the road is great fun!

Unfortunately, there isn’t a lot of places to pull over and take pictures but it’s a beautiful drive even if you cannot stop.

Getting to Theth by taxi or tour

It is also possible to hire a 4×4 private taxi if you don’t fancy catching the shuttle bus.

The price can vary from €50 to €100 per person.

There’s a great tour that you can do from Shkoder that takes you to the village of Theth and tour of the church, blood tower, the canyon and Waterfall of Grunasi.

They also have the option to see the blue eye (which is an extra charge).

The tour is around €65 per person.

Getting to Theth from Valbona – The Valbona to Theth hike

The Theth to Valbona hike is one of the best things I have done, and I’m not even a hiker.

The journey can take form 6 – 8 hours depending on your fitness levels and how long you stop at the top on the way.

It took us 8 hours, maybe a little over because we stopped to take a hundred photos as well as flying the drone and stopping to take a break.

I would recommend leaving at the latest 8 am, otherwise if you do take a lot of breaks you may be walking to Valbona in the dark which can be a little scary.

There are a few cafes on the way where you can buy a drink and freshen up along the way.

The food in Theth is amazing by the way – some of the best food in the Balkans in my opinion!

You do not need a guide to do this hike.

The path is relatively easy to follow.

There were about 3 times where there were 2 paths but luckily, I had maps.me downloaded on my phone to tell me which way was right.

I highly recommend you download that before the hike because it gives you offline maps and the correct paths for the hike.

I did meet one person who said they got lost and took an hour detour which wouldn’t be nice to do on an already long hike!

Usually, you can leave a bag with your accommodation supplier in Shkoder before doing the hike, so you don’t have to hike with all your stuff.

There is also the option to hire a mule to take it over to the other side for you.

Once you arrive into Theth and your accommodation supplier (check out the best hotels in Theth here), then make sure you organise a shuttle to pick you up the next day.

However, I do recommend that you stay a couple of nights in Theth as there are some great things to do in the area.

We stayed a total of 2 nights, but I could have happily stayed longer as there are a few different walks you can do.

I highly recommend hiking to the blue eye (3 hours one way) and the Theth waterfall which is around 45mins-1 hour walk from Theth.

There are the top ways to get to Theth, whether you’re an adventure lover or not there are options for everyone.

If you’re not a huge hiker, it is possible to still enjoy Theth.

The area is beautiful and although there isn’t a lot to do other than walk and hike, it’s still the perfect place to relax and take in the surroundings.

If you have any questions relating to getting to Theth make sure you leave them below and I will do my best to answer them for you.

Other articles you will love:

• The Best Places to visit in Albania

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You may have seen photos of this small village with the stone church and the alps in the background.

It’s undoubtedly one of the most beautiful places to visit in Albania, and in the Balkans.

I highly recommend staying at least 2 nights to get the most out of the area.

There’s a lot of beautiful things to do in Theth.

If you are wondering the best way to get to Theth make sure you read this detailed guide on how to get from Shkoder to Theth (4 different ways).

1. Visit the church

The famous church of Theth is a must-visit and inevitably you will see it as Theth is very small!

Theth church has possibly the most beautiful backdrop a church has ever had.

The church was built in 1892.

In 1917 the church was used as a school for the children in Theth to learn reading and writing.

2. Buy a local souvenir

Upon my exploration of Theth, we came upon a woman shepherd who was multitasking and not only looking after her heard but also knitting pupa, which is a sort of sock but is thicker, more like a fabric slipper.

It was the perfect souvenir to take home from Theth, and, I was highly underprepared and didn’t bring anything warm.

We visited in October!

3. Visit the blood feud tower (lock-in)

If you haven’t heard about the infamous Albanian blood feuds, then you’re missing out on a key part of northern Albania’s history.

Blood feuds started as far back as the 15th century when the law of kanun came into play for the tribes in northern Albania and some other countries within the Balkans.

The kanun states that when blood is taken the only way to solve is to take that of who stole the blood.

Meaning if you murdered someone, the family of who has been murdered has the right to kill you and any of your (male) family members.

It’s basically a revenge law.

This tower is where men would hide, it was a sort of safe house where you couldn’t be touched.

Believe it or not, although this law is old, over 300 families in Albania still live in fear in 2019 and don’t leave their homes because of blood feuds and the fear of being killed.

4. Blue eye hike

Distance: 12 miles (19.3km)

Hours: 6- 7 hours

Difficulty level: Medium

One of the best things to do in Theth is to visit the blue eye (Syri i Kalter).

Don’t get it mixed up with the one in the south of Albania, they are different!

Visiting the Blue Eye is a great thing to do for the day.

The hike takes around 3 hours and is medium difficulty.

The hardest bit is the last hour, other than that the path is flat most of the way.

There is an option to get a ride for most of the way and then you will need to walk for around 45 minutes to 1 hour.

I walked there and got a ride back with some friends which I am so happy I did because after 3 hours (and preparing for the big hike the next day) it was a great option for an amateur like me!

There is a couple of restaurants/cafes at the start of the entrance of the blue eye (around the 2-hour walking mark).

Don’t be fooled like I was and think that you are nearly there when you still have another 1 hour to go with nearly all of it uphill.

The blue eye is worth the slog and is one of the most beautiful natural sites in Albania.

When you get to the site there is even a restaurant there which has some beautiful views of the blue eye from above.

5. Theth waterfall

Hours: 45 minutes from Theth church

Difficulty level: Easy/Medium

This is a great thing to do for a couple of hours.

The Theth waterfall is not too far from the centre of Theth and it’s a beautiful walk.

The uphill stage of the walk only lasts around 15 minutes so it’s not too bad and totally worth it when you reach the bottom of the waterfall.

6. Theth to Valbona hike

Distance: about 10.5 miles or 17 km

Hours: 6- 8 hours

Difficulty level: Medium

The most popular hike within Albania and often referred to as ‘the hike’ by other backpackers, the Theth to Valbona hike (or Valbone to Theth, whichever way you want to do it), is not to be missed ad truly is one of the best things to do in Albania.

I am not a hiker at all, but I do enjoy walking and I found this hike to be medium difficulty.

The last hour was the hardest (coming from Theth) as it’s all uphill and it can be steep in some places with it feeling like it may never end.

Or this could simply be me complaining a little too much.

The distance may vary a lot depending on where you stay.

You could easily add another hour onto the walking time depending on where your hotel is, which is why you will hear this hike with so many different times.

We stayed near the church of Theth and left our hotel at around 8.20, and arrived at our Valbona hotel at 4.45 pm so it took us just over 8 hours to complete.

We stayed at one of the first hotels in Valbona which I am thankful for too.

Depending on where you stay, it may also add another hour walk on the road to your guest house!

Stay at … if you’re looking for good accommodation near the end/ start of the Valbona track.

There are a few cafes along the walk where you can buy drinks and fill up your water bottle.

Make sure you bring some food with you. Often the guesthouses will offer to pack you a lunch for the hike so ask you guesthouse about this!

If you have luggage you can hire a mule to take it over the track for you.

Otherwise, a better idea is to leave anything you don’t need an accommodation supplier in Shkoder.

Only pack the essentials!

7. Eat at Guesthouse Shpella

The best place we ate at what this Guesthouse Sphella.

It’s great food, very affordable, a super friendly family who run it.

We got a big grill platter each which was only €7. Soup is only €2!

After a trip to the blue eye or the waterfall make sure you stop here to fill up on yummy food.

8. Stay at Bujtina Polia

This is where we stayed for 2 nights and I highly recommend it.

We had a little cabin which was nice and cosy.

It’s located right next to the Theth church and about a 20-minute walk to the centre of Theth (where the mini market is). The family were friendly, and the food was good.

Breakfast was a buffet and was filled with all the right things to prepare for the days hiking.

We also had lunch there (500lek pp) which was a range of dishes like meat, cheese, salad, soup, bread and water.

They also have family dinners which were €10 per person.

There was a lot of food and a typical Albanian style of lots of different dishes, so you get a bit of everything.

To check their latest prices and availability click here.

When visiting Theth, don’t do what I did and forget just about everything you need to hike with.

There were lots of people with professional hiking gear, walking poles etc but, you don’t need anything fancy.

Still here’s a list of what I recommend you bring with you to Theth:

• A good water bottle 
• Comfortable hiking shoes
• Hiking Backpack

I hope this guide has given you a good insight into the best things to do in Theth and the surrounding area.

If you have any questions about Theth or any of the places I have mentioned, then please leave them below and I will do my best to answer them for you.

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